Alpine Guide Exam

Goal: To certify guides to work without supervision in an alpine climbing environment, and to continue the aspirant guide's learning process in applying techniques in a wide variety of conditions.

Format: A multi- day exam often base camped for several days in a popular mountain guiding area. Classic guiding routes are completed as part of the daily task. Candidates play the role of guide, making the appropriate decisions regarding objectives, terrain choices and options, and client management. The candidate is given enough information to make his or her decisions and is expected to carry out options should the given objective be out of condition or inappropriate.

Candidates should expect to guide a variety of routes with different types of climbing including technical rock, snow and ice faces, mixed routes, some short aid sections, and lengthy moderate ridge routes. The successful candidate demonstrates safe, efficient guiding that comes as close to meeting trip objectives as conditions allow.

Expectations: Come prepared and able to demonstrate and be examined on information contained in the ACMG manual "Technical Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides" and taught on the Guide Training Rock, Guide Training Alpine, Assistant Rock Guide, Assistant Alpine Guide, and the CAA Level 2 Avalanche courses. The guiding standard requires movement up to 5.10 in rock shoes, 5.8 in mountain boots, alpine ice to 70 degrees, and waterfall ice to Grade 4.

Special Exam Areas: In addition there may be exams in the following topics: Crevasse Rescue, Rock Rescue, Navigation, Shortroping, Record Keeping, Teaching Session.

Location and Length: These are often mobile courses and will visit several alpine locations in B.C. and Alberta over a 9 day period toward the end of August.