Lamu

The hired gunman completed a strained pull on the rusted cocking handle, releasing the bolt with a loud snap - the 7.62 round locked into the chamber of his assault rifle. Metal on metal resounded with a sharp click, an auditive reminder that we were within 20 kilometers of the Somalia border, negotiating the desert scrub lands of Northern Kenya where roaming bandits spilled into the country, armed to the teeth and high on khat. We had proceeded to hire both a van and an armed mercenary on our overland expedition to Kitu, where we would then procure sea transport further north into the Lamu archipelago. Lamu, once a thriving Swahili city-state, has degenerated into a backwater island town of 17, 000, surviving on a limited fishing and tourist industry.

The island, despite its proximity to Somalia and relative inaccessibility, is a magnificent town, and a fine example of the Kenyan coast some 350 years ago. Lamu, an orthodox Muslim community, has, and continues to resist the twenty first century. Cars are non-existent, while the far more practical donkeys, ubiquitous on the island, navigate the narrow stone streets with ease. The town offers an impressive variety of Arabian and Swahili culture, which thoroughly works your ears, eyes and tongue. The island is essentially a desert, complete with rolling sand dunes and palm tree fringed beaches. A quiet donkey ride along the coast is a unique experience, whit waves lapping at your feet (or hooves), and the beating sun ripples over cresting sand hills. One half-expects Robinson Crusoe to wash up on this island paradise.

As the afternoon chill set upon us, we set out to catch some snapper and crab about the murky waters of the pate island mangrove forests. (Nets provided, and surprisingly easy to use). Nestled under a leafy green bush, we cooked our catch over a beachside fire, lying in the warm sands of the island with comfortable and fainéant nonchalance. With the golden sun sinking to the horizon, we began our leisurely donkey trot to Lamu town, our Don Quixote animal caravan both fun and wholly humorous. Lamu is the best-kept secret on the Kenyan coast, and I intend to keep it that way; I will, however, inform those few wanderlust travelers with itchy feet who may read this, of Lamu...